Insider’s Guide:
Vancouver Island

Marianne Abraham

Vancouver Island has it all—from the oh-so-British charm of capital city Victoria to the lush green rainforests and wild trails of the Pacific Northwest coast—in my opinion, it doesn’t get any better than this. From laid-back city life to the best of West Coast nature, here are some of my favourite ways to make the most of every aspect of the island.

Victoria

The capital city of British Columbia, Victoria is a charming city with one of the most temperate climates in the country, thanks to its status as the southernmost city in Western Canada (there’s hardly any snow!). Known as the ‘Garden City’, it’s easily accessible by ferry, seaplane, commercial air or heli-jet from Vancouver and the mainland.

Situated in the beautiful Inner Harbour, Victoria is said to be one of the most British cities in Canada, as evidenced by its name, inspired by Queen Victoria. First established in 1843, this is one of the oldest settlements in what was then known as British North America.

B.C. Parliament

The grand buildings of the B.C. Parliament are the centre of government of the province of British Columbia. The neo-baroque buildings were completed in 1897, designed by the young architect Francis Rattenbury, a 25-year-old English immigrant, who entered an architectural competition and won the commission. Prominent statues include Queen Victoria on the front lawn, as well as a gilded statue of Captain George Vancouver, who tops the central dome; there is a single statue of a solder to commemorate those who served in the First and Second World Wars and the Korean War.

Butchart Gardens

One of Victoria’s top attractions, the Butchart Gardens were established by Jennie Butchart, the wife of a wealthy cement producer. Former limestone quarries were turned into extravagant ornamental gardens, among them a Japanese garden, an Italian garden, and a large rose garden in the English Arts and Crafts style.

The year-round attraction is a delight in all seasons, from the fresh tulips and cherry blossoms of spring to the profusion of colour in the summer (and evening displays of lights and fireworks). Autumn’s fall colours and leaves make way for winter’s subtlety and the festivities of Christmas. Some incredibly rare blooms can be found growing here, including the notoriously finicky Himalayan blue poppy.

Where to Eat in Victoria

Breakfast or Tea

For breakfast, head to Cora’s, which hands down has the best breakfast in town and the friendliest servers. For a spot of tea or coffee, make your way to Murchies in downtown Victoria. These old-style English tea and coffee merchants have been in Victoria since 1894, and this shop has been run by the Murchie family ever since. It’s great for souvenirs and gifts, or a quick bite.

Lunch

There are so many choices in town, but one of my favourites is Fish Hook—an incredible fusion of Indian and Pacific Northwest seafood. Nearly impossible to imagine, but it just works. (My favourite: the smoked sablefish pakoras.) Or try vindaloo-spiced mussels for another dish that can’t be replicated elsewhere.

I’m also a sucker for Lure, which has an excellent harbourside location; I really love the airy and bright room, combined with Pacific Northwest bistro-style food. The best way to arrive here is by mini tugboat/water taxi, which whisks you right to the restaurant’s dock! I also love it here for cocktails in the warmer months; head to the comfy couches and lounge by the water, sipping at your leisure.

Midday Must-Haves

Cold Comfort Ice Cream Store

Here’s one of my secrets: the absolute best ice cream sandwiches can be found here, suitable for vegans and non-vegans alike. Situated in retro-style hipster digs, this store has over 400 flavours in their archive (but not served all at once—and they’re a bit kooky, as there is even a Douglas Fir-flavoured option). My favourites are the Golden Graham, a salted caramel ice cream surrounded by a graham crumb cookie masterpiece of flavours, or rosemary and sour cherry ice cream in a vanilla biscuit.

Afternoon Tea at the Fairmont Empress

For a grand experience, do not pass up this quintessentially British tradition. An emblem of the city, the hotel’s ivy-covered façade has welcomed visitors to Victoria since 1908. As I like to tell people, it’s ‘more British than Britain’. Sip your tea from a bone china cup while nibbling on tea goodies like crustless watercress sandwiches or butter scones with strawberry jam and oh-so-traditional clotted cream.

Dinner

Aura

Showcasing the very best of Pacific Rim regional cuisine, with an Asian-influenced menu, you’ll find Aura a little more formal, but spectacular for its twinkling harbourside setting. For those wanting fresh fish, you’ll also see sushi popping up and ‘SeaCuterie’ (Italian-inspired cured meats created from seafood instead of game) as an intriguing way to begin your meal.

OLO 

My favourite restaurant for a lovely night out on the town is OLO. Look forward to dining on sophisticated, high-quality Pacific northwest farm-to-table (or sea-to-table) fare, and eclectic cocktails. From inland to the briny, bountiful flavours of the sea, the freshness is inherent in every bite.