Insider’s Guide to Marrakech

Olivier Maillard

I’ve travelled to so many places over the years, but it’s Morocco that has truly captured my imagination as time goes on. There’s just something here that captivates me. Perhaps it’s the different pace of life. Or the incredible people I’ve met…or is it the food, the culture, the atmosphere…? Whatever it is, this intoxicating mix keeps me returning over and over again. If you’re looking to explore Marrakech, I’ve compiled a short sampling of some interesting things to see and do, as well as some local characters and my favourite haunts. This list is certainly incomplete but will give you a little taste of ‘off-the-beaten-path’ with some classic Moroccan must-dos. 

Places to See

Museums

Immerse yourself in the arts of the ‘ochre city’ from past to present. My top choices: Musée de Marrakech (Marrakech Museum), featuring both modern and traditional Moroccan art, is housed in an ancient palace, itself a prime example of Andalusian architecture. Right next to it is the Ali ben Youssef Medersa, a beautifully ornate 14th c. former theological college. Located right in the medina (old town), you’ll also find the Musée de la Photographie (Museum of Photography and Visual Arts)

Take a walk in the Jardin Majorelle, long associated with fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, and peruse the private collection of St. Laurent’s own creations and local artisans. This autumn, look out for a brand new Yves Saint Laurent museum that is set to open, featuring over 5,000 items of clothing and 15,000 accessories in a 4,000 square metre (43,000 square feet) space. Finally, for a look at modern artists and art forms, head to the Musée d’Art et de Culture de Marrakech (MACMA).  

Jemaa el-Fnaa Square

It’s Marrakesh: it’s inevitable that you will eventually end up at Jemaa el-Fnaa square. But go there at nighttime, when it really comes alive (and so you can skip the heat of the day). Linger over a mint tea and head to one of the terraces for an elevated view of the action down below.

Souks and shopping: get lost!

A fun game to play is walking in the souks without a local guide, getting lost, and finding your way out…it’s honestly a wonderful way to wander and discover something new! Try to find the Terrasses des Epices for lunch or the Souk Cherifia for great shopping.

Search for authentic Morocco in the Sidi Boutchich neighbourhood, getting to know the incredible artisans that work in this district.

If it’s a new, modern Marrakech you’re looking for, head to the industrial zone of Sidi Ghanem. Not particularly photogenic, but this is where you’ll find lots of modern local and international designers. (No haggling here!). Look for Florence Teillet’s showroom, filled with incredible hand-woven textiles and fabrics.

Take the time to stop at Mohamed Bouskri’s new art gallery, Bab Doukkala, for a chat with this amazing character. Do as Sarah Jessica Parker did and stop by Aya’s Marrakech for kaftans and other accessories; share a mint tea and conversation with proprietor Nawal, while admiring her latest creations.