Mutrah fish market for local flavour

To get a taste of what local life is like, head to the fish market, as early as sunrise, when the fishermen return with their freshest catch of the day. Be sure to get there before 10 a.m., as all the action will be over by then. This wet market is brimming with locals bargaining, and the ocean’s bounty is on full display, from shark to tuna, moray eel, skate and even wild shrimp.

The fish market in Muscat (Mutrah) is best seen in the early morning, before 10 a.m. (by this time, they’ll be shutting down). In fact, the fish market begins about sunrise, as fishermen return with their fresh catches of the day. Oman has a long tradition of living off the sea.

When the Sultan boosted Oman’s economy with oil money, he kept traditions alive, subsidizing the smaller ‘floating cigar’ boats and dhow boats that remain in use, shunning the use of larger boats and modern trawlers. A common seafood item eaten by Omanis is dried shark meat soup, but with shark being sought after (especially in Asia), the authorities have forbidden any shark meat exports, thus safeguarding this traditional dish.

Mutrah corniche for an evening stroll, followed by the souk
Striking a gorgeous silhouette as the sun sets, the magic hour is the perfect time to walk around and stroll after dinner. If you’re walking from the Sultan’s palace, it will take you about 45 minutes to arrive to the corniche for a bit of liveliness and a refreshing breeze from the ocean.

Make your way to the souk (marketplace) in the evening, the best time to see the vendors’ wares glittering and shining in the light; I find it a bit empty in the daytime. If you are looking for souvenirs, this is the best place to purchase the coveted frankincense of Oman, as well as pashmina scarves. You can find a few antique shops at the souk, but I recommend going to Nizwa if that’s what you are after.

Sip some Omani coffee

In Oman, the stimulating effects of caffeine were first observed by goat herders, who noticed their animals’ sleeping habits extended long after eating fruits from a certain bush.

The coffee beans were collected and used in stews, with the bitterness counterbalanced with the addition of honey. Eventually, the modern coffee-drinking practice of roasting, crushing and brewing beans was adopted, along with a side order of dates for sweetness, as sugar wasn’t readily available at the time.

A day trip to Wadi Shab and Sur
Experience the miracle of water in the desert at a wadi. Worth the two-hour drive south of Muscat, Wadi Shab is an ideal day trip, but avoid Fridays and Saturdays, as this is when the crowds peak. Be sure to check the weather forecast before planning a trip to Wadi Shab, as when there is rain in the mountains, the canyon will be closed to all visitors.

This canyon, which narrows as you walk deeper into the wadi, is accessed by boat at first. Cross the river, walk on the well-marked trail, and make your way to the end, where you’ll find caves to swim in, natural waterfalls and a desert oasis haven.

I recommend a stop at the Wadi Shah hotel for lunch and a swim at the beach, or combining your visit to the seaside town of Sur.

Just a quick 20-minute drive south of Wadi Shab, Sur was once a slave trading harbour, and as a result its population differs from the rest of Oman. Here, you’ll see the famous dhow boat factories it’s known for, as well as its market; all in all, a wonderful day trip to get out of Muscat.