Český Krumlov: castles and scandals

The town of Český Krumlov is not the oldest in Bohemia, nor does it possess the most colourful history. What makes it unique in Bohemia—and, in fact, in the entire Czech Republic—is how amazingly well-preserved it is, along with the striking views obtainable from virtually any spot in town.

The Krumlov Castle was established around 1250 and grew over the centuries to become one of the most significant castle complexes in Central Europe (second only to Prague Castle). Over 40 buildings and numerous gardens and courtyards comprise its grounds. The Rožmberk family’s rule brought early prosperity from the 14th to the 17th centuries, but huge debts forced the last Rožmberk—Petr Vok, a noted debaucher—to sell the town to Rudolf II, a Habsburg. The acquired wealth of Český Krumlov was the only thing that kept the town from being destroyed during the Thirty Years’ War, but the huge cost left the town broke.

While the years following the First World War under communism did not actively help the state of the historic buildings, the communists’ lack of interest in the Old Town saved it from sloppy restoration (or worse, conversion into a modern town). Since the end of the communist era, intense revitalization of the town has brought it new wealth and vitality. In 1992, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Post-Cold War tourism has now picked up where the Rožmberks left off, yet Český Krumlov has resisted the fast-food and merchandising chains, neon advertising and other unattractive attributes of commercialization. This is due in part to its UNESCO designation—along with local pride and foresight.

Šumava: the last wilderness of Central Europe

 The Šumava “Bohemian Forest” region of pine trees and peat bogs is part of the largest continuous forest in Europe; it is contiguous with the Austrian Waldviertel and the Bavarian forests and represents perhaps the last true wilderness in Central Europe. It was governed semi-feudally by the lords of Krumlov right into the early 20th century.

The Czech part of this enormous multinational forest, the Šumava, partly owes its integrity, like Český Krumlov, to the Cold War. When the Czechs evicted all German-speaking families after World War II, the region remained very sparsely populated.

This isolation, combined with the poor roads and lack of population preserved the natural environment better than any park could have done—now that the roads are again open and tourists are flocking here for its natural beauty, large parts of the forest have been declared national parks.